How To Repair Glock Frame

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Hello everyone,
What I need to accomplish here is to make full a pigsty on a Glock frame using epoxy, and make it appear every bit natural equally possible (blackness colored epoxy when dried, for case). The reason I demand to do this, is that I've had a Cominolli manual safety put in my Glock, now I need to accept it out. That will leave a hole in the frame. Doesn't really interfere with the operation, but I like to restore it back to "normal" if the price is no more than a tube of epoxy...

As for why I need to take the manual safety out, I'd write a full review of this experiment when I got fourth dimension. In short, there's nothing wrong with manual rubber. It worked as designed, and functioned 100%. Mr. Cominolli is a very nice person, he even custom made a prophylactic lever for me at no charge after I called him, and shipped to me at his expense. It's my way of gripping the gun that got in the way of the safety lever. Basically, to arrive work, one has to shoot with their strong-hand thumb OVER the safety lever, riding that lever, pollex pointing down range. Their left pollex would be alongside, also pointing straight ahead. I saw a lot of 1911 people shoot similar that. I can't practice it, feels bad-mannered to me. I grip my G23 with my right thumb exactly in the thumb recess that Glock put there on the side of the gun. My left thumb then come on height of that, both pointing kind of downward. In this manner my right thumb is UNDER the safety lever. Every fourth dimension I burn down, my correct thumb would push up on the lever, past the recoil. And that locks upwardly the gun...

Cheers!

Here'southward a pic of my Glock with the safety on:
CWL Fellow member

Joined:

January 6, 2003

Messages:

six,526
Practise you ski? If you lot do, practice you know of the stuff called "p-tex" which is used to backup gouges in the lesser of skis? It is PET cloth and volition probably await closer to the gun polymer than epoxy.
A stick of black p-tex costs well-nigh $1.00 and tin can be melted-in with an iron. When hardened, you can shape and remove information technology until it is flush with the gun. Expect at the video prune here to come across and decide if you want to go this road.

http://www.tognar.com/base_repairs_tips_ski_snowboard.html
Be enlightened that similar all firearms polymer parts, the Glock frame is a glass fiber bearing plastic to which few adhesives volition adhere, including epoxy.
Y'all can fill with many adhesives, but they pare right off since they don't adhere.
Perhaps you could donate this Glock to some diving team that dives with sharks. I hateful Glocks can fire underwater right???
Merely joking.

Seriously, I don't know much about Glocks. I shoot 1911's.

I really don't know how you would fix that.

Luke
The Lord co. in North Carolina makes a production chosen fusor. I use it on all types of plastic and information technology works dandy. Its a footling expensive and requires a applicator gun. Get to a auto torso repair store they might loan you the gun. The color is correct and its a strong repair.

Last edited: Aug 10, 2009
Acraglass can be colored.
I call up Brownells sells a couple of resins that are used for things like grip reductions, butfrom what I've seen, they are UGLY.
I remember you can get a replacement frame for $175 (don't quote me on that), and that might exist the way to get.

Dan
+1 to what Hk Dan said.
This is the strongest and most naturally appearing/aesthetic "fix" that I tin can think of.

The addition of the "Cominolli Rubber" requires a permanent and irrevocable amending to the Glock frame (the "cut") that is non hands repaired which is why I'd never exercise information technology in the first place unless I was absolutely certain that it was what I wanted, "forever" . I believe that you'll spend a considerable amount of time trying to "correct" this "modification" and if you are looking for a truly reliable and aesthetic solution this looks to be the all-time way to go.
pardon my ignorance...
I'd call Glock and clarify...with or without the repair I think you lot are SOL since Glock probably won't stand up behind a modified frame; not sure what to tell yous to cheer y'all up
Thanks a lot to all the comments above! I'll endeavour to read on the products like p-tex and fusor, on the Internet. The other lath I posted this to, INGO (Indiana Gun Possessor forum), some people mentioned Plastic Welder by ITW Devcon. I went to their website, and they actually mentioned their product would work on the cloth Glock utilise for their frame, "Nylon 6" or "Nylon six,6". Since the cut does not bear upon the operation of the gun, I'll take it slow...
Now, I was pretty certain virtually what I wanted, and the safety did work as described. I just couldn't imagine my grip would have to exist contradistinct to adjust to the matter. I Volition sell the whole kit after to compensate some price (cloth cost, equally the labor I paid the gunsmith is toast at present)....

Nearly the replacement frame, I actually called Glock customer service yesterday, just to come across if they'd offer any "free" communication. I waited near three minutes before a alive person came on the line, better than I idea, and definitely better than Microsoft hotline. The guy laughed out loud when I told him that I needed to make full a hole in my Glock. I told him I didn't put the pigsty in the gun, merely a certified Glock armorer did, to install the rubber. He told me first of all, they don't requite communication what to employ to fill the pigsty, they don't endorse whatever 3rd party addon (of course non), they consider whatsoever amending the customer did to the gun equally unauthorized (yeah aye), and they consider the frame had been destroyed. He and then said that they do sell the frame for $150 separately, but if I send my frame in, he'd replace information technology for $43 (pretty skillful deal, guess I can beget a few KBs in the future, being a xl-caliber Glock mine is). It volition be my last resort, if I can't find a sure fashion to fix that cut, and if that cut annoys me to indicate that I have to ready it...

So, if any Glock people out in that location would similar to have their frame replaced, you can ask Glock to do information technology for $43 (I don't call back they'd cover your shipping, only I didn't ask them specifically)...
Tin you provide evidence of these kabooms on a Glock using .40 caliber ammo that is Non hand loaded over-capacity?
I believe this kaboom trouble to be an Internet legend. Or these kabooms are happening with people who are hand loading their rounds over capacity. In that case, then yeah the gun is supposed to kaboom.
$43.00? At present that is what I call service. Sounds like a very fair price (tin can yous say "cheep" ) for replacing a frame contradistinct out of warranty.
You can exercise every bit you wish, but I know what I'd exist doing if I were in your position.

Glock CS has always been terrific whenever I accept needed it. Seems like they still are.
Xl Iii DOLLARS???? Good Lord, human, yous could barely JB Weld it for that!!! LOL
Congrats, buddy! Easy prepare, and the right 1 to boot.

Dan
- Contributing Member
rbernie Contributing Member
For twoscore three bucks, I'd exist packing it up and sending it to Smyrna.
That'southward $150 for the new frame and $43 for the labor, for a full of $193. Correct?
However, I would do that, or even keep information technology every bit is, or purchase another, before I would put some substance that will ultimately work similar mucilage forth a moving role of a firearm.
i'g pretty sure the $43 would exist the toll for a frame
i don't know what information technology price in your land, but i think the transfer fees would be more the cost of the frame.

i'g pretty sure they're not talking most transferring you serial number to the new frame, just i might be incorrect
Yep, a friend of mine damaged the rail on his G30SF and sent it back to Glock...they charged $47 for a new frame and that included return shipping...bummer was that it took three months to get information technology back...something about the frame manufacturing wheel, etc, etc ...
Were it mine, I would use the shafting expoxy that golfsmiths utilise to adhere a graphite golf shaft to a club head. You can purchase a graphite-specific epoxy from places like Golfsmith that are blackness in color. If you know anything almost club work, or golf game in general, you lot'll recognize that yous will break the shaft or the head before the epoxy bond will permit go, and that's saying something, given the pressure that a society is under during the swing and subsequent contact with the ball.
Cheers for all the comments and advices. I'll leave the gun every bit is for at present, simply keep on shooting it, every bit much as I can afford...